While some of us in 2012 may have to put getting our latest passport
stamp on hold, others are practically packed and ready to see the world.
Either way, planning a vacation is one that not only takes time and
money, but creativity as well. After all, yes, there are the same
vacation spots you always visit, but there is much to see outside of our
comfort zone if we look beyond the obvious locales. There is also the
opportunity to see a city, state or country outside of the recommended
“must-see” sites if we are willing to trek, traverse and prepare
ourselves to be amazed.
Pura Vida! No doubt, you have heard this phrase when it comes to
describing the laid-back feel and hospitality of Central America’s
jewel, Costa Rica. A nation that boasts white sand beaches, mesmerizing
volcanoes and ethereal rain forests, for a heaven-on-earth experience,
Costa Rica is about as sublime as it gets. In the summer of 2008, my
husband Nelson and I took the opportunity to travel to Costa Rica for
the first time. We have several friends who have traveled there and one
colleague of ours whose family hails from the country, and based on all
of their glowing reviews, thought that this would be a perfect vacation
for us; however, we decided for our inaugural trip, we would travel the
road less traveled.
First, we went to Costa Rica in the off-season, August. By traveling
during the rainy season, our flight was cheaper and we avoided many of
the crowds that tend to descend upon most of Central America in the
spring and early summer. We were willing to accommodate the rainy
evenings (very romantic!) and bug-infested days, to see the country at a
more relaxed pace. Prices for our casita (small house) and hotel we
rented were considerably less than during high season months, a real
consideration if you are budget conscious like we are.
Second, make a capitol connection. Many travelers to Costa Rica will
probably tell you about San Jose, the capitol, “move along, nothing to
see here” but you would be remiss if you didn’t spend at least one full
day in the city. We found San Jose, a lively city with terrific
eateries, an amazing marketplace where tough bargaining is absolutely
required, and a not enough time to do everything we discovered we wanted
to do. The city is a mixture of the Spanish colonial era with a nod to
its indigenous roots and a city becoming modern. The university is an
open campus and well worth walking around. The Jade Museum holds some of
the most beautiful pieces of stone carved and set in gold. To be a queen
or king in Pre-Columbian times! Don’t miss out on San Jose!
Go south! Most tourists will head to the north and west of Costa Rica
taking advantage of the cooler climates, rainforests and westernized
(re: big name) resort hotels and amenities. However, the south has
something the rest of Costa Rica cannot offer: a thriving population of
blacks descended from Jamaica who arrived into the country at the turn
of the 20th century to work building the railroads and as migrant labor
on banana plantations. It is this infusion of Caribbean music (reggae)
and food and patios (brush up on your irie slang mon) that makes this
part of Costa Rica an underrepresented part of the total Costa Rica
experience. Limon, the largest city in the Southern Caribbean part of
the country, boasts outdoor malls selling local goods, waterfronts and
the best copo (shaved ice with condensed milk and fruit syrup) in the
area. (In fact, we didn’t find it anywhere else but in Limon.) Puerto
Viejo de Talamanca, is a haven for the young, backing sort, but we felt
right at home. There is a string of unspoiled beaches and quiet
restaurants and friendly Ticos (Costa Ricans) who will talk politics
(then-candidate Obama was a such a source of pride for us and our
hosts), be your local guide to the area, or tell you about their
relatives who live in New York, Miami or their last visit to the states!
By far, the best town in southern Costa Rica is Cahuita. Founded in 1828
by an English-speaking fisherman from Panama named William Smith,
Cahuita is still the quiet fishing village it was more than a century
ago. Its residents are mostly Black Caribes who run businesses that
cater to tourists. The main attraction is Cahuita National Forest, which
is ran by the state; however, it was not unusual to see kids outside of
their houses playing, going to school, going about their daily lives
un-phased by the presence of tourists. We rented a motorcycle for the
day in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca ($50 for 24 hours, full tank of gas,
return on empty) and made the 30 minute trek on the well-paved highway
to relax on the beach. We took a 2-hour snorkel excursion, ate patties
(stuffed meat pies found in most Caribbean countries) and dodged howler
monkeys playfully throwing their poop at passersby in the forest! We
stopped for yet another swim, chatted with locals and danced at a bar
drinking ice cold Imperials, the national beer, while drops of rain fell
from the sky, cooling all of us who had spent the day in such a heavenly
place.
I still have not seen all that Costa Rica has to offer, including their
prized cloud forest and volcanoes. I am sure, when we return those sites
will be on our list. I, for one, am glad that we took a risk; we did not
pack our trip with the usual itinerary. We endured the six-hour bus ride
to the south; we braved the wet, but cooling rain; we met and befriended
locals who shared our passion for Bob Marley and reggae music; we
supported a part of the country that is often neglected. We have stories
about the hidden gems in the small towns and the unparalleled
hospitality and friendliness we experienced our two weeks traveling. We
can truly say, yeah mon, we experienced Pura Vida!
